We went for a relaxing trip to Mystras. The experience was unexpected.
We’ve travelled with my wife to Mystras several times in the past but not in recent years.
When we were exploring options for a fall getaway it was a favourite option. Admittedly the Peloponnese is one of our favourite destinations all year round.
On our second day in the area (we actually stayed just outside Parori village) we thought we’d pay another visit to the Mystras castle city.
We first went to the top entrance and walked up to the top castle ruins.
We then reverted to the lower gate and went to see the heroic Monastery of Pantanassa which survives multiple years of vandalisms from conquerors and foes.
For the end we pondered about revisiting the Despots Palace which we remembered as an old building with a reconstruction of an old dining area but not much more.
The lady at the Metropolis museum just in from the lower entrance said to us “you came all the way here, you can’t miss the Despots Palace.”
It was another 20 minutes of hard upward hike. And we are already 3 hours into hiking since the morning. We decided to go.
What we found was beyond our wildest expectations.
The Despots Palace had fully renovated and in fact reopened last May 2026 as a multiple room museum and with additional heritage presentation areas.
Everything was designed and built with high artistic sensitivity and clever use of technologies to emphasise and present the heritage of that almost magical historical place.
All facilities available including a souvenir shop and a very well equipped cafe.
We must have wandered around for almost 2 hours, making sure we didn’t leave anything unseen. We almost didn’t want to leave.
Still we had to move on as it was getting dark, we were exhausted, it was starting to rain and we were getting hungry too.
We were there since 11.00 in the morning and it was closing 5.00pm..
Tip: if you only have a short time there or cannot ensure long hikes , just go park at the top parking, a short downward hike to the Despots palace.
To me this is must visit to anyone who appreciates the Greek historical heritage. This place for me is right at the top of the list along with the also magical Delphi ancient site.
Tickets are 20€ for the entire site and worth every cent.
Enjoy the photos gallery and find at the end some info about the history of Mystras.
Don’t hesitate to reach out for tips about the wider area, accommodation, where to eat etc.
History and Evolution of Mystras
- Founding by the Crusaders (1249):
The castle city of Mystras was built on a steep hill of Mount Taygetos (near ancient Sparta) by William II de Villehardouin, the Frankish Prince of Achaia, following the conquests of the Fourth Crusade.
- Return to Byzantium (1262):
After William was captured by Byzantine forces at the Battle of Pelagonia, he surrendered Mystras as part of his ransom. It became the administrative nucleus and military heartbeat of the Byzantine province known as the Despotate of Morea.
- The Royal Families & The Palaeologan Renaissance:
From the mid-14th century onward, Mystras was ruled by prominent Byzantine imperial dynasties, including the Kantakouzenos family and later the Palaeologos family. Under their rule, it evolved into a brilliant cultural and intellectual capital. It was the home of the Neoplatonist philosopher Georgios Gemistos Plethon and served as a major epicenter of the Palaeologan Renaissance, heavily influencing late Byzantine art, philosophy, and architecture just before the empire’s collapse.
- The Last Emperor:
Constantine XI Palaiologos—who would become the final Emperor of Constantinople before its fall—served as Despot here, and was famously crowned inside the fortress city.
- Conquest and Abandonment:
Following the fall of Constantinople, Mystras held out as a final bastion of Greek sovereignty until it was surrendered to the Ottoman Empire under Sultan Mehmed II in 1460. It later saw Venetian occupation before being largely abandoned in the 19th century after the foundation of modern Sparta. It was designated a UNESCO World Heritage Site in 1989.
Recent Renovation
The most significant milestone in Mystras’s modern history occurred in May 2026, when Greece officially reopened the Palace of the Despots after an extensive, multi-decade restoration project spanning over 40 years.
- The Scope:
This complex stands as the only completely preserved Byzantine palatial structure in existence. The comprehensive restoration rehabilitated its administrative wings and the grand, high-ceilinged Throne Room.
- Modern Integration:
The re-opened site incorporates universal accessibility, climate-resilient infrastructure, and state-of-the-art permanent exhibitions (“Imperial Narratives”). It features immersive digital media, holographic recreations of late Byzantine figures, and authentic recreations of imperial court garments designed in collaboration with the Greek National Opera.